Murphy’s Law
I was stuck in traffic. The sun was setting. I’m running on the beach with a tripod tripping over the rocks. The sun has set. A string of obscenities is unleashed. My pro surfer and friend Derek Dunfee steps knee deep into a puddle of water ruining his shoes for his family’s dinner. I tell [...]
The 3D Fisheye Story
I was sitting in my room in Rhode Island going through a box of magazines in my closet that I had stashed away as a teenager. I came across the Sports Illustrated swimsuit edition in 3-D they put out in the 90′s, like every 13 year old I thought it was so awesome to look [...]
Brazil 2008
Movement Magazine, one of the largest bodyboarding magazines in Australia sent pros Matt Lackey, Simon Ormerod and I to Brazil in search of waves and dark-haired women. I thought it was going to be a trip based around partying and gutless windswell, but I was wrong. The first 10 days were amazing surf ranging from [...]
Kevlar Helmet
I get a couple messages a week asking about my weird helmet and why I wear one. I wear it because I’ve hit the reef a few times, and taken surfboards to the head. When a big wave lands on me I cradle the waterhousing in my arm so with the helmet I don’t worry [...]
Rhode Island 2008
It’s funny, I’ve never shot fisheye at my home break. I don’t usually bring the housing because I think “ohhh it would be big enough”…boy was I was wrong. I went home for a week for my annual visit to see my parents. One afternoon there was a crazy rain storm, followed by a burst [...]
Thunder Island
After staring at an island for two years on Google Earth I saw a swell headed for it, and on a whim decided to go. One train, two flights, a cargo ship, and a rickety pickup truck later I was hiking through the jungle with a machete.
The Mexican Gynecologist
It all started with a simple cut on my foot my fins in Mexico. I get these all the time, throw a little peroxide on it, watch it fizz, good to go. Last night all of a sudden after my friend left I had a raging fever. Full sweats even with the AC freezing the [...]
Ke’iki Shorebreak in retrospect
Last winter my good friend Ron Mcadams and I paddled out in the shorebreak on the North Shore of Oahu while Jordan Stallard filmed. That morning Pipeline was huge, and very crowded. The sand had shifted and covered the usually exposed patches of reef at Ke’iki shorebreak. Ron was getting excited to paddle out and [...]
Surfer’s Path #67
Surfer’s Path 67, the opening spread. So hard not to let this photo leak out, it was one of the wildest sessions I’ve seen. Lackey, Simon Ormerod and I went to Brazil, and were expecting a lot of partying and small windswell…One day the swell was on the rise, and we wandered over to a [...]
GoPro Cameras
Recently I was at the Action Sports Retailers (ASR) trade show in San Diego and came across the company GoPro. I met the president and he introduced me to the product engineer. He just came out with a new fisheye model he wanted me to do R&D testing on and take it into some bigger [...]